AN EXPERIMENTAL STUDY OF LOW-FREQUENCY WAVES GENERATED BY RANDOM GRAVITY WAVES IN SHOALING WATER

CORC > 自然资源部第一海洋研究所 > 自然资源部第一海洋研究所 > 业务部门 > 海洋与气候研究中心

	AN EXPERIMENTAL STUDY OF LOW-FREQUENCY WAVES GENERATED BY RANDOM GRAVITY WAVES IN SHOALING WATER
	Liu, X.1; Yang, Y.2; Huang, P.2; Mahmood, MF ; Henderson, D ; Segur, H
	2010
关键词	Wave nonlinearity low-frequency waves shoaling
页码	7-28
英文摘要	A laboratory study of the nonlinearity of random waves (the primary waves) and low-frequency waves induced by the primary waves on inclined beaches is presented. The experiments were carried out in a wave flume that is 65 m long, 1.2 m wide with a water depth of 0.7 m. Three plane beaches with different slopes (1/20, 1/30 and 1/40) were used in separated experiments. Incident primary waves with a Person-Moskowitz (PM) spectrum were mechanically generated with significant wave height ranging from 0.047 to 0.125 m. The time series of surface elevations at different water depths along the beach were simultaneously recorded. Low-frequency waves are obtained from the measured wave data with a low-pass filter. The results show that the primary waves on the beach are highly nonlinear. The surface skewness and kurtosis, two statistical measures of wave nonlinearity, are functions of a nondimensional parameter H-S/d, where H-s is the local significant wave height and d is the water depth. The spectra of low-frequency waves in shoaling region are affected by beach slope and the energy of incident primary waves. The energy ratio between low-frequency waves and primary waves strongly. correlates to the local surface skewness. The growth (dissipation) rate of low-frequency waves on beaches is controlled by the Iribarren number, xi = beta/(H-0/L-0)(1/2), where beta is the beach slope, H-0 and L-0 are the significant wave height and wavelength of incident primary waves, respectively.
会议录	PROCEEDINGS OF THE CONFERENCE ON WATER WAVES: THEORY AND EXPERIMENT
会议录出版者	WORLD SCIENTIFIC PUBL CO PTE LTD
会议录出版地	PO BOX 128 FARRER RD, SINGAPORE 9128, SINGAPORE
语种	英语
资助项目	Ocean Science Foundation for Young Scientists[95409]
WOS研究方向	Engineering ; Oceanography
WOS记录号	WOS:000394471100002
内容类型	会议论文
源URL	[http://ir.fio.com.cn/handle/2SI8HI0U/5245]
专题	业务部门_海洋与气候研究中心
作者单位	1.Univ Maryland, Dept Mech Engn, College Pk, MD 20742 USA; 2.State Ocean Adm, Inst Oceanog 1, Qingdao 266031, Shandong, Peoples R China
推荐引用方式 GB/T 7714	Liu, X.,Yang, Y.,Huang, P.,et al. AN EXPERIMENTAL STUDY OF LOW-FREQUENCY WAVES GENERATED BY RANDOM GRAVITY WAVES IN SHOALING WATER[C]. 见:.